2007 China International Tattoo Arts Convention
-Direct Coverage from Beijing-
by Damian McGrath, Tattoos.com

On the road with Lyle Tuttle: Day Two

lyle_emailI awoke in my hotel to another bright, hot and humid morning in the heart of Beijing just steps from the Forbidden city and checked in down the hall with my road partner.

Lyle Tuttle was already sipping Jasmin tea and logged in to Ebay for his first electronic fix of the day. No sooner had we started to discuss plans than the hotel phone rang as if to take over arrangements for us. Our translator, Jason Goo was in the lobby with artists Hailin Fu and Qiao of Shandong who had come to also attend the Beijing convention and were wanting to meet us. "Damian, it is Jason, artists have gifts, may we come up"? he said.

I am quickly realizing two things about the culture here in China
Hailun Fu1. Gift giving is a big part of hospitality when you first meet someone.
2. If you are an invited guest you can fight tooth and nail to try and pay for a meal or drinks but in the end it is fruitless. It is an insult and there is no way around it.

Renowned tattoo author Mike McCabe, who has been teaching here for three years and published many books on tattooing history in both America and Asia had given me a heads up via email. But after the events of today I now am beginning to understand.

Hailun Fu's flashbookJason Goo greeted us with Hailin Fu (above, right), one of China's most famous tattooists in Lyle's room minutes later bearing beautiful books of tattoo designs that he and his wife had made of his drawings. They contained hundreds of breathtaking illustrations based on Chinese mythology with the stories accompanying the artwork (view it online @ www.liehuo.com )
to order email Jason at liehuo-tattoo@163.com .

We gracefully accepted the gifts and were more than happy to reciprocate.

Thankfully, the heads up from McCabe had prepared us for such an event. Lyle broke out a couple of the few prints we had brought with us. The "12 Classic Tattoo Machines Poster" was a limited edition print that Lyle and tattoos.com had created from his personal collection of over 800 machines in the San Francisco Tattoo museum. Lyle personalized, numbered and graciously signed the posters. Through the translator he then explained the history and significance that each one has had on tattooing today. As Jason translated you could see their interest and delight grow. They knew what a special moment this was. I then led them to my room and explained that we had a few tattoos.com shirts and convention shirts that had been printed late after the NIX show from june passed. We had brought a limited amount of t-shirts from NIX 2007 with Bob Tyrrells beautiful skull and maple leaf design. I told them both to pick out shirts for their wives and all of us continued to thank each other and enjoy our new found gifts and friendship. I was now beginning to understand what McCabe had meant when he emailed me before our trip to Beijing.

lyleLater we met Kisen and our driver for lunch. We enjoyed, once again a wonderful variety of Beijing delicacies, and Lyle remarked to me quietly how he was going to buy lunch. At the end of the meal, Lyle stated, then tried to insist on us taking care of the bill, but Kisen held firm. McCabe had once again given us a solid heads up. There was just no getting around it. We realized it was impossible, he would not even consider it no matter how hard we tried. Then off Kisen goes once again to the airport to greet Mike Rubendall and Chris O'Donnell from NYC for their arrival and to bring them back to join all of us.

As Lyle, Mike, Chris, and other artists gathered together later that evening for dinner I remarked to McCabe how he had pretty well hit the nail on the head when it came to Chinese hospitality. Mike McCabe and his lovely wife explained to all the artists that they had literally seen fights break out over this tradition of hospitality, it is hard wired into there culture. Kisen, who was not about, no doubt off again to accommodate more guests missed the entire conversation but had ( As I was almost certain of already) taken care of the meal for all the artists. (below L-R: Mike Rubendaul, Chris O'Donnell, Mike McCabe, myself, Christian of malta and Lyle)

group shotAfterwards MCCabe took us for a tour of the hippest part of Beijing, the GUIJIE. which is a reference from a king of the Ming Dynasty which meant a box to put your food in, reflecting the many bars and restaurants. A stretch of narrow roads dotted with outdoor cafe's, bars, tea houses and shops filled with curios. A non tourist secret of the locals. We all enjoyed more beer, beverages and good company. Artists exchanged stories while we approached by young tattooed locals eager to find out more about this gathering of tattooists. In the end as Lyle and I said our goodbyes, I made a last attempt to buy refreshments at the end of the day. But McCabe would have no part of it. He insisted on taking care of Lyle and all the guests, to which I retorted "Good god Mike, you've gone native on us".

Below photos from dinner and some of the artwork from Hailun Fu's flash book.

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On the road from Beijing, with Lyle Tuttle, by Damian Mcgrath :
Day 01