In the outskirts of Bangkok, Thailand in the Pathumthanee district near the airport; a middle-aged tattooer named Mr. Nue has a reputation that extends throughout south East Asia for his powerful tattoos. He is known as a Black Magic Arjan (tattoo master or teacher). His studio is located at the end of a humble soi. Chickens scramble around the dirt road, chased by young kids and corkscrew tailed dogs. At the base of Mr. Nue's studio steps a few signs are tacked to the wall spelling his name in Thai. There are also three cow skulls with horns hanging on the wall. They aren't necessarily menacing, they just hang there in the baking sun.

   Upstairs the arjan's studio is large and airy, about 25-foot square with louvered windows at the back for cross ventilation. About 10 young men sit on the floor around two tattoo apprentices who are pushing ink with long traditional needle wands into two devotees. Mr. Nue sits in a meditative position surrounded by bowls and books. Some bowls have water in them, others offerings of money from customers. To his left is a very crowded alter with several Buddhas. There are melted candles and incense sticks burning on the alter; pieces of fabric with magical symbols on the them that men fold up and keep with them.

   Mr. Nue used to be a Buddhist monk living as a hermit in the jungle for many years. He learned the secretive and sacred practice of conjuring tattoo magic from senior teachers when he was younger. His power is highly respected for the ability to change people's lives.

   He is not a median and does not claim to conjure spirits through himself. Rather, he knows the power of tattoos, and applies them onto customers so they can heal or change themselves. It is the person wearing the tattoo who is powerful. The tattoo helps them to find the power in themselves.

   Two younger students are working at the arjan's feet tattooing sacred images onto customers. They are both heavily tattooed from the neck to the belt level with Thai and Khom language script. Nestled into the script are images of Hindu deities. Shiva, Brahma, Vishnu and Ganesha. There are Buddhist deities as well. These images first made their way to Indo China around 500 AD from China and India from old trade routes. They were adopted by ancient Khmer people and synthesized into a fluid belief system that incorporated them with traditional, local animist beliefs. People spun them all together to help control the unpredictable nature of their lives.

   As the arjan, Mr. Nue monitors the progress of the tattoos being applied. As they are completed, the customers approach him for a blessing. He incants some phrases and then blows forcefully on the fresh image. The customer bows respectful, his hands at his nose. It is very rare for a woman to be tattooed this way. Mr. Nue has tattooed a few but it is extremely rare. Traditional tattooing in Indo China is the domain of men. Women are thought to drain the power of the tattoos. A prohibition associated with the monthly cycle of menstruation. The loss of blood is thought to drain the power of the arjan and tattoo. It is avoided. In the quickly modernizing city of Bangkok, men continue to patronize Mr.Nue in hope of improving their lives.

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